There are many places you can jump off to from Lima – Cusco, to see the ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu; Puno, to play in the vast freshwater Lake Titicaca – but we headed inland about 600 miles north east, to Iquitos. Iquitos is a frontier town, accessible only by air or by sea, and is the gateway to the Amazon. Not far from the borders of Brazil, Columbia and Ecuador it attracts a fascinating mix of travellers, smugglers, beggars, ex-pats, conservationists and con artists. It’s a bit like Mos Isley in Star Wars, where Obi Wan and Luke Skywalker find Han Solo and Chewy amongst the odd-looking malcontents.

Once you’re there, the best way to get around is by motorised tuk tuk, or motorkar, as they’re known here. They buzz around the main square like bees, and if you’re not smart you’ll get stung by one too – drivers start the fare high and, if challenged, come down quickly; don’t pay more than two sol (about $1US in the local currency) for any journey under about 10 minutes. When it rains – which, as this is rain-forest territory, it does regularly – the drivers whip up plastic sheets in bright primary colours to cover their passengers.

It’s quite a sight – how Quadrophenia might look through the eyes of a four-year-old with a pack of crayons. If you’re smart enough, bring a lightweight waterproof and avoid the ‘psychedelic bin-liner’ look. The main square is the focal point of Iquitos, and in one corner is the most beautiful church. As I arrive, the sun sets behind it and pastel colours splash the sky behind the spires. Now that’s a welcome. I could grow to like this place.

C&T recommends:

• Drink: Cristal – crisp, Peruvian lager, popular with locals, and with advertising like this, it’s not that surprising
• Eat: Popcorn from a street vendor – the corn is twice the size as ours, so when it pops, you just can’t stop…
• Hear: the sound of the motorkar horns – after a few Cristals it almost becomes musical
• Check out: Fitzcarraldo – a film by Werner Herzog about a would-be rubber baron set in Iquitos